Majestic deep green mountains drop into crystal-clear blue water, with shallow reefs that suddenly become somehow fifty metres deep. This is where one of the world’s most famous — and most feared — waves is found.
Welcome to Teahupoo.
This is a wave I’ve watched for years and been in awe of. Then, a little while ago, I realised I wanted to surf it, put my surfing to the test, and see if I could handle it. So, as we crossed the Pacific Ocean, sailing for 28 days, I constantly checked the swell and watched the surf cam, learning as much as I could.
Eventually, we got the chance to surf the wave before leaving French Polynesia… and I paddled out to the fantasised beast that is Teahupoo.
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Sailing into Tahiti
We’ve been to Tahiti by boat before, making this our second time here. The amazing thing about Tahiti is that no matter how many times you come, it still leaves you in awe every morning when you wake up and look out the window to see the clear water and lush mountains greeting you.
We actually arrived several weeks before I got to surf Teahupoo and spent our time finding waves and fixing the boat between Moorea and Papeete. This gave me some time to watch the weather and get my surfing back up to speed, as we hadn’t had waves for a little while.
Then, during our last week in the region, we found a day that could work. And yes, I was searching for a smaller day (Teahupoo is crazy enough on any day!). The wind was light and hopefully offshore, the swell was only a metre and a bit, and it looked like we’d be able to make it in time! I may or may not have been checking the Surfline cam several times a day…
Getting from the Boat to the Wave
Unlike our usual surf missions, we got to Teahupoo by car and taxi boat. Normally, we’d anchor as close as we could to a surf break and then take the dinghy (small boat), with boards loaded up, to go surfing.
There were a few reasons we didn’t want to do this:
- There are no anchorages close to the break.
- We weren’t sure how the locals would feel about us turning up in our own boat. Yes, this is a valid concern in French Polynesia for sailors.
- We didn’t have the time. We had to get there in a day.
So, we found ourselves in a rental car, boards on the roof, and eight people squeezed inside (we had two guests with us). An hour-and-a-half drive brought us to the taxi boat marina, and then we were piling out of the car and into a boat.
My First Look at Teahupoo
The nerves were absolutely firing as we made our way out to the pass. It felt like getting ready for my first surfing competition a few months earlier: nervous and excited in almost equal amounts (okay… probably more excitement).
There was also a hint of disbelief because, as we came up to it, there wasn’t a whisper of wind, and I could only count about six people out! The captain floated around while we waited to see a set roll through. I could already tell it was a good size, and now I was REALLY excited.
Paddling Out
My younger bro and I pulled on our surf suits and waxed up our boards, with excited and nervous chatter filling the boat. Diving in, I tried to treat it like just another surf, as we’d been surfing left-hand reef breaks for the last few weeks.
Paddling out, we followed the captain’s instructions (and what we’d done throughout French Polynesia), paddled up to the guys in the lineup, said “Ia Orana”, and fist-bumped them.
Then we were away, sitting out at this incredible break and trying to grasp that this was actually happening.
First Wave
A smaller one rolled through with no one on it. I paddled in and managed to get onto it. It was definitely more of a shoulder, and I’m afraid to say my nerves totally got the better of me. I surfed it pretty uncoordinated, slipped, and somehow managed to save it.
Hey, at least the first wave was out of the way, and the nerves were starting to disappear. But now I knew I had to make up for the slip-up and do a lot better on my next one.
My bro also got onto one, and now we were settling into things and starting to just enjoy it.
What Surfing Teahupoo Really Feels Like
Sitting out there, I caught a couple more waves and was just in awe.
No matter how many times you watch this break on a surf cam or read about it, nothing can prepare you for just how magical it really is. There is nothing like it… and I’m fairly well travelled!
You look back at the boats and see everyone smiling. Then you look up at the mountains and wonder how a place like this can even exist… then a set rolls through and you’re paddling like mad so you don’t get smashed!
Getting Barreled
Yep, I actually got barreled.
I couldn’t believe it! Honestly, I was so happy just to come and watch the wave, let alone paddle out, catch waves, and get barreled. I was so stoked it’s hard to explain.
As it happened, a wider set wave came through, and no one went deeper than me. So I spun, paddled my heart out, made the drop, and ducked under the oncoming section.
Two seconds… and some of the best of my life so far.
The coolest thing was the crew in the boat yelling their hearts out for us. Whenever someone in the lineup got barreled, you’d know because of the screams. That’s another unique thing that makes Teahupoo… Teahupoo.
Ending an Unforgettable Surf Session
We milked it until sunset, until the waves were getting hard to see and the captain called, “One more wave.”
Then we made our way back to the boat, getting hugs and high fives from everyone on board. The froth levels were sooooo high, and the relief of having done it was just as real.
Heading back in, rinsing off, and jumping into the car for a long, dark drive home, I could hardly believe how we’d scored. The conditions were ideal for us, the car and taxi boat lined up perfectly, and we had friends to share the experience with.
It’s honestly still sinking in.
And the thing I want to end this post with?
Māuruuru, Teahupoo, for letting us score.
I’ll be back. Don’t worry about that.
Q&A
How dangerous is Teahupoo?
Teahupoo is considered one of the world’s most challenging waves because it breaks over an extremely shallow coral reef with heavy, powerful barrels.
Can intermediate surfers surf Teahupoo?
On smaller swells, experienced intermediate to advanced surfers may enjoy the shoulder, but the wave demands confidence in reef breaks and strong ocean awareness.
Where is Teahupoo?
Teahupoo is located on the southwest coast of Tahiti in French Polynesia.
Why is Teahupoo famous?
It’s famous for producing one of the heaviest, thickest barrels in surfing while breaking over a very shallow coral reef.